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Playas vírgenes, tortugas y maría la gorda
Cuba al oeste

Photography courtesy of Mimi Whitefield

La población de la punta más occidental de Cuba es escasa, pero es posible que conozcas a un par de navegantes británicos que recorren el mundo lentamente, o quizás a una mamá cerda salvaje que lleva a sus lechones en un paseo por la mañana justo afuera de la puerta de un hotel.

CABO DE SAN ANTONIO

Solamente hay un camino de tierra hacia Cabo de San Antonio: un camino de dos carriles que se extiende a lo largo de la Península de Guanahacabibes, pasando kilómetros y kilómetros de playas desiertas de arena blanca, afloramientos de coral, manglares y matorrales de palmas altas y flacas.

La mayoría de los turistas en Cuba no va más allá de la arquitectura colonial de La Habana, los automóviles antiguos, los salones de puros, la música vibrante y las playas al Este de la capital. Pero todo un mundo de esplendor natural espera… al Oeste.

Siendo aventureros de corazón, un amigo y yo hicimos de Cabo de San Antonio, a 154 kilómetros de la costa de México, nuestro objetivo. Para llegar allí, tendrá que mostrar su pasaporte en un punto de control al principio de la península y decirle a los funcionarios de inmigración y aduanas que tiene una reservación en el Hotel Villa Cabo San Antonio, de 16 habitaciones. Esta colección de cabañas es el único alojamiento por los alrededores.

Después de esquivar un jabalí, un becerro renegado y unas pocas iguanas que se deslizaban por la carretera, arribamos justo cuando el sol ardiente de color naranja se sumergía en el océano y el cercano faro de Roncali se iluminaba en el atardecer.

No hay mercados aquí, así que el barman nos preguntó qué queríamos comer la noche siguiente. “Necesito descongelarlo”, dijo.

El camino termina tres kilómetros más adelante en el puerto deportivo de Los Morros. Hay una pequeña barra allí, adornada con banderas de los veleros de navegantes que han desembarcado en este punto remoto, el lugar perfecto para saludar con una copa haber alcanzado el extremo oeste de Cuba.

La mañana siguiente, cuando volvía del desayuno y me dirigía a la playa virgen para nadar, me encontré con los cerdos salvajes en el lobby del hotel.

Estuvimos en el mismo sitio en diciembre y los mosquitos no nos trataron tan mal, pero en los meses de julio y agosto, hay que llevar repelente de insectos.

TABACO Y NATURALEZA

Tomamos una ruta serpenteante a la península desde La Habana, dejando tiempo suficiente para explorar. En las provincias de Artemisa y Pinar del Río, destacan los cultivos de algunos de los mejores tabacos del mundo en Vuelta Abajo. Pero también hay cuevas y otras colinas de piedra caliza, llamadas magotes, en el Valle de Viñales (declarado monumento nacional y Patrimonio Mundial de la UNESCO), la Sierra del Rosario en Las Terrazas (declarada Reserva de la Biosfera por la UNESCO), un centro de buceo internacional en María La Gorda y el jardín de orquídeas más grande de Cuba en Soroa.

Los operadores turísticos cubanos han comenzado a añadir destinos de ecoturismo e incluso hay viajes de investigación a la península para ver en julio la temporada de anidación de las tortugas caguamas y verdes (dos especies de tortugas marinas en peligro crítico de extinción y constantemente amenazadas). Para capturar el sabor del oeste de Cuba, hay que alquilar un auto o auto y chofer. Reserve con mucha antelación, porque es difícil encontrar alquileres de automóviles a última hora.

La ruta a través de Pinar del Río pasa por las principales tierras productoras de tabaco, donde los bueyes todavía trabajan los campos. Puede seguir un mapa del gobierno a lo largo de “La Ruta del Tabaco”, que incluye granjas de tabaco abiertas al público y dónde comprar cigarros.

Pero nosotros también encontramos granjas de tabaco que no estaban listadas, donde los trabajadores lucían felices al explicar el proceso de curado y cultivo. En una parada, una campesina incluso entró en su casa para prepararnos un poco de café fresco.

MARÍA, LA VENEZOLANA

Para visitar el segundo punto más occidental de Cuba, tome el desvío sur a María La Gorda en lugar de salir a la punta de la península de Guanahacabibes. Ahora es un centro internacional de buceo, con un rico pasado y un montón de versiones de cómo la comunidad obtuvo su nombre: circulan versiones de piratas y una misteriosa mujer llamada María.

Nos gustó la historia contada por un bartender en Villa María La Gorda, el resort frente a la playa y el centro de buceo: En la época de los piratas, María y su padre, que eran venezolanos, naufragaron y llegaron a tierra en el sitio de un burdel. Con el tiempo, María se convirtió en una señora de renombre y vivió sus días en la punta de Cuba.

Mientras tres barcos de buceo se movían en las aguas turquesas, los visitantes bebían mojitos en el bar y estudiaban sus manuales de certificación de buceo. Hay cursos de certificación de tres días e instrucción de buceo más avanzada en español, inglés y francés.

Un viaje de día completo con dos inmersiones, equipo, almuerzo y buceo en una playa desierta cuesta alrededor de US$ 90, un regalo. Los arrecifes y cuevas submarinas están a pocos minutos de la costa.

También hay alquiler de Hobie Cat y una playa de palmeras, perfecta para descansar. El restaurante El Carajuelo lleva el nombre de un pescado local favorito, pero también hay langosta e incluso pizza de camarón.

Al final de un largo día en el agua, los visitantes se reúnen en la playa con bebidas en la mano para saludar una puesta de sol que es casi siempre espectacular. Como debe ser en el Oeste.

American Airlines vuela a La Habana, Varadero, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Camagüey y Holguín


AVES Y ARTESANOS EN LAS TERRAZAS

Estoy sentada en un banco cerca de un centenar de algarrobos que sobresale por el tejado del Hotel Moka, esperando los primeros colores rosados del alba y el arribo de los pájaros. Soy observadora de aves por primera vez, pero la guía Otis Campa me asegura que veremos un montón en Las Terrazas, a 60 kilómetros de La Habana. Pronto estamos rodeados de currucas, un zorzal de patas rojas y un pewee cubano. “Hay 374 especies de aves endémicas de Cuba”, dice Campa, señalando una rama donde está posado el tocororo tricolor, el ave nacional de Cuba. Sus plumas rojas, azules y blancas imitan los colores de la bandera cubana.

En total, localizamos 21 aves mientras caminamos por las colinas y la niebla se eleva del valle. Hace siglos los franceses plantaron café en las laderas de la Sierra del Rosario, y cuando abandonaron las plantaciones, el terreno estaba casi desnudo. En la década de 1970, la zona fue reforestada y unos ocho millones de árboles –caoba, cedro, ébano, gumbo lindo, teca– fueron plantados en las laderas de Las Terrazas. La pequeña comunidad se ha convertido en un experimento en desarrollo sostenible. Si no desea levantarse con los pájaros, visite la comunidad de artistas de Las Terrazas o el Café de María donde venden café recién tostado.

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